FASHION HISTORY: MUGLER 1992

SPRING/SUMMER 1992 - THIERRY MUGLER

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Hi welcome to my Substack, wanna see some Mugler???

Mugler has been one of my favorite designers for a long time now - I love theatrics and exaggerated silhouettes (when they’re combined with genius tailoring & good design) and there’s something about who he as a designer is that I always felt a connection to. I felt genuinely very sad when he died, I felt a similar feeling of heartbreak and disappointment when André Leon Talley died. I don’t usually feel that about people I don’t know so it was surprising but anywaysSSS ––––

Thought it would be fun to look back at shows of the past and share some fashion history while refreshing and educating myself.

Here’s an excerpt from fashion-history.lovetoknow.com:

“Thierry Mugler came to his career in fashion design via dance and photography. Born in Strasbourg, France, in 1948, he studied at the Lycée Fustel de Coulange in Strasbourg from 1960 to 1965 and at the School of Fine Arts in 1966 and 1967. He performed as a dancer with the Rhine Opera Ballet in the 1965-1966 season. He moved to Paris and began working as a professional photographer while simultaneously freelancing as an assistant designer for a number of fashion houses in Paris, London, and Milan. Mugler showed his first ready-to-wear collection (using the brand name Café de Paris) in 1973 and obtained financial backing to open his own company, Thierry Mugler, in 1974. In 1986 he bought out his investors to obtain full ownership of the company. He opened a fragrance company in 1990 and scored considerable success with the perfume Angel in 1992. In that same year he showed his first couture collection.”

and also a bit more from Elle:

“In 1978 he opened his first boutique in Paris and he subsequently worked hard throughout the 80s to build his empire. Acquiring an army of exalting supermodel and celebrity supporters including Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, George Michael and even RuPaul, by the 1990s Mugler was sold across the globe from Browns in London to Saks on Fifth Avenue, and in 1992 he created his first ever haute couture collection as per the request of France’s Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.”

Interesting that he died at age 73 and showed his first collection in 1973. Numbers. Don’t overlook the mention that he was a photographer - he was an incredible photographer. Def look those up if you have not seen.

Mugler was not a subtle designer, and even his most extreme looks were available to order. I own one Mugler dress and it is spectacular. Part of my re-education campaign is because I want to know exactly what year/collection my dress came from, and it’s going to take some digging to figure that out.

Let’s take a look at the first collection that Vogue Runway has available so I can show photos and not just video: Spring 1992 RTW. Also I was watching this collection on my recent flight home so I already have screenshots and we’re just picking it up here OK we can always travel further back.

The fact that this is a Ready To Wear collection is so insane lmao?? Usually you see a more subdued version of your couture designs with RTW. Mugler treated this like just another couture show.

Here are my favorite looks from the show - and stay tuned for the video, I am constantly surprised how totally different clothes read in motion vs. from photos alone. It is actually incredibly important to look up and watch videos of the shows of your favorite designers. There is a lot that is lost when you transfer from real life to video to a singular photo of each look.

Also please keep in mind - when I cover collections, often I am choosing my favorites, and my curation may lose the overall tone. I’m going to include more than I do on IG here to give a fuller picture, but if you want to really dive deep and learn about a collection or designer, you should take a closer look on your own.

The hat….. I love it sm it hurts

This skirt is an excellent example of how easy it is to overlook something when you only see it in a photo. On video this skirt gave me heart palpitationsss. I tried to screenshot it and still did not succeed:

This graphic on a latex top is so good lol

Details are important - from the first photo to the close up it’s a totally different look

I didn’t realize at all what fabric this was at first - it’s got to be that fucking holographic plastic lenticular fabric!! I got some from the fabric district years ago but it didn’t come in yards - I used it as a background for instagram product shots of my earrings for a bit. It’s magical and I’ve seen only a handful of designers use it, it’s very stiff and hard to work with but insanely cool. It changes patterns based on the angle/ light.

That bag!! CDs were totally new technology at the time - they were invented in the 80s but probably were just becoming known and used at this time

God, just look at the details

This is one of Mugler’s most iconic looksss. Totally mindblowing. And remember, this is a fucking Ready To Wear collection lol!!!

Wow. Beyonce wore & lets be real Gaga was just trying to get as close as she could

Viewing these through a lens that considers when they were created and what pioneer and risk taker Thierry was is vital to understanding his importance

19 year old Tracee Ellis Ross, daughter of the Diana Ross

The casting of his shows - special. It was shocking at the time.

Guess who this is - Ivana Trump, fresh off her divorce with Donald.

And what’s a runway show without Naomi

Cow horns as a design symbol, I’m inspired

Don’t overlook the bullhorns in the dress!! By her hand!

Another iconic Mugler moment - sending a trans supermodel, Connie Fleming down the runway in this absolutely iconic and HEAVILY rhinestoned chaps look.

This is THE moment for Mugler

And a moment for fashion history.

Godddddd. These aren’t as widely known which is weird to me, look at these… And don’t forget to stare at the shoes

I’m just going to say it and apologize for it now. If I am ever/when I am given the opportunity and/or decide to risk going into debt putting shoes into production, I will be ripping these off. I am sorry. Actually, you’re welcome. But also sorry. But also you're welcome

God, these dresses!!!

And look how young and cute he is!!!! I love him!!!!

Watch the show!!!! There is only 8 minutes of it, older shows are hard to find and something happened to part one. Can I embed on Substack?

Well, I hope you enjoyed my first post! Can’t promise they will all be this in depth or that they won’t be. I guess we’ll see! Hope you stick around to find out <3

XOXIX

Sideara